Shanghai Fashion Week Fall/Winter edition themed “Chain Sparks New Life” (链象生新), was inspired by the encounter of different elements in the world of fashion, which sets off a chain reaction leading to the new fashion movements and interesting clothes. The goal was to stimulate collaboration and creativity while also deepening links between designers and the industry.
Each label represents the most recent design trends as well as a wide range of fashion. They displayed a mix of Eastern and Western elements, with a focus on sustainability and diversity in their designs. Around 100 shows were presented, and designers paid more attention to the mix of commerce and creativity, reflecting changing market conditions and consumers’ growing influence in the formation of fashion trends.
Designers are experimenting with new fabrics, including organic cotton, bamboo, hemp, and recycled materials. High-tech materials, such as lab-grown leather and bio-textiles created from mushrooms, are also becoming popular due to their low environmental impact. ICICLE, a sustainable fashion brand, was also highlighted at Fashion Week. ICICLE sources only natural, sustainable materials such as cotton, wool, silk, and linen, and its concept is profoundly anchored in the “Natural Way”.
Labelhood, a Chinese retailer, brings together 19 local labels, including known names like Linlin Chasse, Ponder.er, Fabric Qorn, and Shushu/Tong brand, as well as emerging talents like Redemptive and Markgong. It became more broadly established than before with the development of SHFW and supporting facilities. In response, SHFW has increased its content and activities to facilitate communication among all fashion industry stakeholders.
My favorite collection came from ASSIGNMENTS, which drew inspiration from the fascinating second act of the ballet “Giselle”. The collection honors Giselle, a phantom woman caught in the delicate balance of life and death, love and hatred, revenge and forgiveness. The collection stands in stark contrast to the previous season’s leisurely stroll down the sunny Amalfi Coast, exposing a poetic inquiry into the inner depths of human emotions and embarking on a profound journey of love, betrayal, and redemption.
The exquisite combination of the pleating technique and sheer transparent textiles really embodied ASSIGNMENTS expertise. Soft, delicate tailoring blends ghostly whites with tranquil greys and deep russets, resulting in a sophisticated and timeless palette. The airy sheerness conjures up a surreal daydream, soft but mysterious.
Second one was Le Fame. The collection “Modern Shanghai Trilogy” was divided into three chapters: “Shanghai Glamour,” “Shanghai Moonlight,” and “Shanghai New Classical.” The company collaborated with independent designer Zhong Zixin to reinvent the city’s famous style and heritage, inspired by the 1920s and the present Shanghainese woman.
Next one was Shushu/Tong, the way this brand demonstrated how adhering to a single vision can lead to a successful worldwide business, even without an international presence. Considered one of the must-see brands at Shanghai Fashion Week, the brand, founded by Lei Liushui and Yutong Jiang in 2015, now employs over 20 people in China and sells to over 90 doors globally, with the dress being the best-selling item.
In this collection, the brand was inspired by Leslie Caron’s portrayal of Gigi in the 1958 film adaptation of Colette’s best-selling novel. According to Liu, Gigi’s shift from an ingenue to a social lady coincides with the rise of the brand’s consumer, which is entering marriage and looking for something in between grandeur and mischief.
As the fashion industry converged in Shanghai, Selkie’s catwalk featured items that combined romance, nostalgia, and modernism. Selkie’s AW24 collection, which included flowing gowns decorated with celestial designs and soft knits reminiscent of comfortable evenings by the fire.
Mark Gong’s show at the other hand, was a viral moment of Shanghai Fashion Week, featuring statement fur coats, lace intimates, and a Central Park-themed runway. According to Gong, the collection was a celebration of friendship between those who navigate professional ambition while cherishing the unwavering support and softness found in private moments with close friends. Gong offered structured leather jackets, shoulder-padded suits, monogrammed denim pieces, embroidered knits, pocketed cargos and voluminous minidresses, as well as furry boots, feather sandals and leather berets.
These collections showcased a wide range of styles, from quiet luxury and clean fits to avant-garde designs and Eastern-inspired aesthetics. The designers’ commitment to innovation and sustainability, as well as their ability to adapt to the changing market and consumer preferences, made their collections stand out at the 24AW Shanghai Fashion Week.
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